Sainte-Mère-Église – Normandy, France
Ok, we did leave Rouen, France, that was only the 1st day. I’m just slow at posting. After driving through Rouen we arrived and spent our first night in Bayeux, France. Its famous for its tapestry which is basically a 70-yard political cartoon which tells the story of William the Conqueror’s rise from duke of Normandy to king of England, and shows his victory over Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. It also is a convenient town to sleep in before exploring the Normandy WWII historical areas.
My WWII history knowledge comes from talking to my Grandfather about his WWII experiences. Grandpop only tells humorous stories as if the whole war was about joking around, pranks and cruising around (he was in the Navy). I know he just doesn’t want to deal with telling me the sad or harsh stories, but that’s ok. We decided to do a full-day Normandy WWII tour with BattleBus. This is a French company who specializes in D-Day and Battle of Normandy tours, but their guides are mostly native English speaking expats for whom D-Day is a lifelong obsession and hobby. Our guide didn’t have a memorized schtick, but a genuine passion for history. And our bus had 6 people in it, not the 40+ people of the Grayhound buses that we were passing on the road.
Sainte-Mère-Église was the first stop of the day. If you have watched the movie The Longest Day you might remember the famous scene where a paratrooper was caught on the Church by their parachute. The scene is based on an actual person John Steele who returned to the town year after year for D-Day celebrations and along with many vets was quite beloved by the locals.
The other sight beyond the Church in Sainte-Mère-Église is the Airborne Museum. While it was included in our BattleBus tour, I wouldn’t pay the 14E to get in if I was DIY my own tour. The reason I say this isn’t because the museum is bad, it is just too small to be worth the price tag.
Don’t forget to look inside the chapel. Visit the chapel early in the morning before the tourist buses ruin the moment would be well worth it. Inside you will find that they have redone the stained-glass which was blown out in the war with new commemorative glass which features the paratrooper who liberated the village. People from Normandy have a great affinity, even to this day for the US military. A Norman child places a flag on every allied grave every year on D-Day. What the allies did for Normandy is taught in schools. As an American it is strange to travel and have people like you these days, while I’ve never encountered hostility there is a lot of confusion on how and why America does what it does in the world. I’ve never felt the need to impersonate a Canadian because I think these discussions are important means of spreading good will and understanding. None of this was necessary in Normandy. My husband is in the Army so he has the short hair of an Army officer, sometimes this causes problems, but in Normandy we felt nothing but extreme warmth, very un-French, but very nice. That accompanied by the wonderful Norman cider and mussels had us wishing to stay longer.










